Jorge-Vieira
26-02-16, 15:08
Water Cooling 101: Installing Your Basic Loop
Welcome back to ThinkComputers Water Cooling 101! Over the past several articles we’ve been covering all the tricks and tips we’ve learned from years of building water cooled PCs. After an introduction to the art and designing our desired layout, we showed you how to pick the best parts for your needs, and finally once they arrived how to prep them for use. Finally, we are now to the point where we can do something truly exciting and actually our hands dirty; it’s install day! Today we go step by step and show you to install your very own basic water cooling loop. Our Water Cooling 101 series is brought to you by our great friends at Aquatuning (http://www.aquatuning.us/)! Check them out for all of your water cooling needs!
http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/aqua-tuning-600x333.jpg (http://www.aquatuning.us/)
First things first, you gotta build up your standard PC. We are going to assume that you know what you are doing in this category and won’t be going over it step by step. Basically you just want to do a nice tidy install as if the main components are everything you are going to be installing. Starting with clean wiring will give you a nice clean blank canvas to start with when you begin putting in your water cooling components.
Our rig is based on the following components:
Motherboard: Gigabyte G1.Sniper3
CPU: Intel 3770K
Memory: Crucial Ballistix DDR3 1600 8GB Kit
GPU: Asus GTX970 Strix (http://www.thinkcomputers.org/asus-strix-geforce-gtx-970-graphics-card-review/)
Storage: OCZ Vertex 3 120GB
PSU: Corsair RM750x (http://www.thinkcomputers.org/corsair-rm750x-750w-power-supply-review/)
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-1-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-1.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-2-200x114.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-2.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-3-200x125.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-3.jpg)</center> Before you begin make sure you have all your parts ready to go. We’ve got quite an awesome selection from our friends at Aquatuning, time to put it all to good use!
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-4-200x118.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-4.jpg)</center> Installing the CPU Block The first step is to install your CPU block. Depending on which block you chose this will vary slightly, but in our experience they all install using a very similar method. We are using an Alphacool NexXxoS XP3 Light block, and as we are using an Intel processor and motherboard we are going to use the Intel bracket for the block. This is simply placed onto the top of the block itself.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-5-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-5.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-6-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-6.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-7-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-7.jpg)</center> Next we pull the plastic backing off the small square piece of foam and secure it to the backplate. We then set up our stand off screws (the longest ones included in the kit) with on single washer on each. In the photos you will see we put the black metal washers on the stand off screws, this is actually incorrect, you should be using the white plastic washer here. The stand off screws are then passed through the correct slot in the backplate. You can find this by simply lining the backplate up with your motherboard and checking visually which holes they correspond with.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-8-200x123.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-8.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-9-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-9.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-10-200x118.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-10.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-11-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-11.jpg)</center> With the screws in the right place line all four up with the motherboard and pass them through the holes and into the front of the case. Holding the backplate with one hand, begin by putting an additional white washer onto the screw followed by one of the small nuts. Once all four are started evenly tighten them down with your fingers to secure them in place. Using the included allen wrench you can keep the screws from spinning while you tighten the nuts.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-12-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-12.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-13-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-13.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-14-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-14.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-15-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-15.jpg)</center> The backplate is now secure and ready to have the block installed, but first you must remember to apply thermal paste! There is paste included with the kit, however we chose to use some high performance Artic MX-2 paste that we know from experience performs really well. Apply a grain of rice size bead to the top of the CPU and prepare to install the block.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-16-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-16.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-17-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-17.jpg)</center> Passing the stand off screws through the ends of the block firmly press down and hold it in place with one hand. With the other hand place a washer on each screw followed by a spring and finally secure each with a thumb screw. After getting each one started, begin to alternate in a cross pattern until each screw is finger tight and all four are evenly applying pressure. You’ve now completely installed your first piece of water cooling hardware, the CPU block!
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-18-200x119.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-18.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-19-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-19.jpg)</center>
Installing the Radiator After the block we will install the radiator. Once installed the radiator will give us an idea of how much space we have left in the case to play with as well as how we are going to have to run tubing. Thanks to the genius engineer(s) at Phanteks installing the radiator is a simple process and can easily be removed again after installed to work on other parts.
Our Alphacool NexXoS XT45 Full Copper radiator has six ports all on the chamber end of the rad. You need to plug four of them with the included G1/4 port plugs.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-20-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-20.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-21-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-21.jpg)</center> Next placing our Phobya G-Silent 120mm fans in push pull we make sure everything lines up how we like it on the removeable radiator bracket. We orient the fans so they will be blowing air from inside the case up through the radiator and out the top of the case.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-22-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-22.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-23-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-23.jpg)</center> Satisfied with the orientation we select the shorter of the included screws since the metal we are attaching the fans through is so thin. Each corner of every fan is secured with the included screws and tightened with the included allen wrench.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-24-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-24.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-25-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-25.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-26-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-26.jpg)</center> Unfortunately the radiator only came with eight of the shorter screws and the longer ones are far too long. Lucky for us we’ve done this before and have lots of extras on hand, but this is something you will want to consider if it is your first time. Similar screw can be sourced from a local hardware store cheaply, the downside is typically only a silver finish is carried.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-27-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-27.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-28-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-28.jpg)</center> With all four fans fastened down we test fit the radiator in the top of the case. We find that although the rad assembly blocks sight of the top of the motherboard the Evolv ATX has plenty of width that will give us all the room we need behind it.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-29-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-29.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-30-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-30.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-31-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-31.jpg)</center>
Installing the Reservoir Following the radiator we want to install the reservoir. This will give us a good idea of where and how the pump must be oriented as well as how the loop will have to be routed to connect with the reservoir ports. For a reservoir we selected the Phobya Balancer 150 black nickel tube res. The finish on this res is extremely nice and it’s a bit a narrower than other 150 reservoirs we have used in the past. Included with the tube is a set of mounting clamps and G1/4 plugs to block the unused ports.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-32-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-32.jpg)</center> The most obvious installation location is the unused wall of our case where additional HDD brackets can be installed if desired. There, evenly spaced holes can be found where we can easily attach the clamps for the reservoir.
Sometimes you will need to create these holes for yourself if your case doesn’t have them. This can be easily done with a drill and drill bit that is just a hair larger than the screw. Use a vacuum to suck up the bits of metal as your drill creates them.
Back to installing our clamps, first insert one nut each into the space on the base of the clamp. Pass the screw through from the back of the case and attach it to the nut in the base of the clamp.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-33-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-33.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-34-84x150.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-34.jpg)</center> Once both clamps are loosely attached slide the res in and see how it looks. If you like the positioning you can go ahead and tighten the screw from behind the case using the included allen wrench securing the clamps in place.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-35-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-35.jpg)</center> Installing the Pump Cruising right along let’s get our pump installed. We chose a Phobya DC12-400 12 V pump. This guy should have plenty of flow for the components and kinks we’re going to throw at it. Installing the pump can actually be one of the trickier parts of your build. A lot depends on which pump you are using and whether you have an aftermarket kit. Standard pumps come with just a single inlet and outlet port. Because of this you have to route your tubing in a way that accommodates this. For instance the DC12-400 has the inlet in the front and outlet up top. Because of that we are unable to have the reservoir feed directly into the top of the pump how we would have liked. Thankfully the Evolv ATX has plenty of room right near the reservoir so we should be able to make something work.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-36-200x130.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-36.jpg)</center> There are two ways to mount this pump. The first is with a simple foam pad which has double sided tape on both sides. The other is a set of tabs which hold the pump in place and are secured with screws. Since we are doing a multiple stage build here we went with the foam pad as it is less permanent.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-37-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-37.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-38-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-38.jpg)</center> Once you get a general idea of how you wish the pump to be oriented, simply stick it to the surface in the correct position. You will also want to plug the pump into the power supply now. If the connectors don’t match I suggest getting an adapter as you will want full power straight from the power supply rather than a motherboard header if you can make it happen.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-39-200x119.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-39.jpg)</center>
Connecting Everything! And now for the hard work and the fun, getting everything connected! One of my favorite parts of a new build is putting all the fittings on and seeing if all my hard planning is going to work out. But often it doesn’t so be prepared to be flexible and change things around of you just can’t get something to work.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-40-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-40.jpg)</center> At this point go ahead and install all the fittings in the way you planned. Removing the collars from them before attaching them should make your life a little easier. Since we are putting a drain line in go ahead and build up the ‘T’ fitting with three straight compression fittings now as well.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-41-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-41.jpg)</center> After you get all your fittings installed it’s time to make or break it, and start attaching the tubing. This is the point where you find out if any of your angle’s are going to cause a kink or perhaps whether you can even force the tubing to make a certain harsh bend at all. Of course assuming everything is set-up nicely, this should be a breeze. Don’t feel bad if you struggle though, this can be very hard to master.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-42-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-42.jpg)</center> Begin with your easiest connections so you can get a good feel for it. Attach the tubing to one of the fittings you wish to connect. Slip the collar over the tubing first and push it down out of the way a few inches. Now run the tubing to the next fitting. Mark the tubing by holding it with your finger where it should touch the base of the threads on the fitting. Give yourself some extra length, about a ½ to full inch. Cut the tubing with a tube cutter if you purchased one or a pair of sharp scissors. If using scissors it is important to make sure the cut is straight or it won’t seal on the fitting properly and could leak.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-43-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-43.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-44-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-44.jpg)</center> Now pull the fitting to the end and tighten them until your fingers hurt. The process will try to sort of spin the tubing, try to keep it straight. It also helps if the tubing is going straight into the fitting when you are tightening the collar. This keeps it from bunching and jamming up the fitting.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-45-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-45.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-46-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-46.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-47-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-47.jpg)</center> Repeat this process for all you connections. Again be prepared to have to change things around if an angle just isn’t going to work. It’s also worth keeping in mind that the fewer 90° fittings used the better as these cause additional restrictions and slow the water flow.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-48-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-48.jpg)</center> Since we are installing a drain line we of course need to close it off. There are many types of fittings designed for this, some just plug the tubing, others attach to a hole in the case and serve as a sort of port. We used one we had laying around, it simply plugs into the open end of the tubing and is secured with a zip tie.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-49-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-49.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-50-200x111.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-50.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-51-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-51.jpg)</center> Keep making those connections until you’ve got everything hooked up and ready to go! The use of swivel fittings will really make your life easier as they will give you a wider selection of angles to use.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-52-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-52.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-53-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-53.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-54-188x150.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-54.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-55-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-55.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-56-100x150.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-56.jpg)</center>
Filling Up Your Loop & Leak Testing Once your loop is fully installed it’s time to fill it up and start testing it! To do this we are going to need to be able to turn the pump on without turning the whole PC on over and over. That’s where a 24pin jumper comes in. This is simply a female 24pin connector with a wire running from the Green power wire to any of the grounds. This tricks the PSU into thinking it’s plugged into a motherboard so it will provide power to all of the other connections.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-57-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-57.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-58-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-58.jpg)</center> Of course now is the time to bust out your distilled water and whichever mechanism for filling the loop you’ve chosen. Ours is a bit of old tubing with a fitting attached and a funnel. This method is cheap but perhaps not as easy as using a fill bottle. Before you begin you will want to put some paper towel down inside the case. Place them as best you can to cover your components. You will not be soaking up a major leak this way but it will certainly help to keep things dry should a minor leak develope. We’ve also found that you can detect a leak easier on the paper towels sometimes. Do remember though, if you are careful to use only distilled water there is very little risk to your parts so long as they are not powered on when wet. Over the years we’ve gotten plenty of components wet, and have yet to lose one from it.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-59-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-59.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-60-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-60.jpg)</center> Only thing to do now is to connect the tubing to the fill port on top of the reservoir and begin filling. A downside to using the tubing and funnel method is the lack of a vent port on the top of this specific reservoir. Because of this the air in the loop being replaced by water must exit the same way the water is going in, which can and will cause an air plug. If this occurs try elevating the funnel or tilting the case.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-61-103x150.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-61.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-62-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-62.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-63-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-63.jpg)</center> When first filling the loop it will only fill to a certain point backing up into the reservoir. When this happens it’s time to turn the PSU on. The pump will kick on and the water will surge, pumping water up into the top of the loop while drawing from the reservoir at the same time. In the early stages be ready to quickly shut down the PSU before the pump draws in air. If it does this it will capitate, which is a bubble of air completely enclosing the impellers preventing the pump from moving any water. If left running in this state it will not only not move any water, but will also burn the pump out as the water is also the pumps only source of lubricant. Simply shut the PSU down and refill the reservoir to continue. If you find that the pump won’t start to move water again give the case a side to side shake or orient the case to that the pump is at the very bottom of the loop, gravity should take it from there.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-64-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-64.jpg)</center> Sometimes filling a loop is a simple five minute process, others a nightmare of turning and shaking the case to move air bubbles. Filling a water cooling loop is an art and the more times you do it the better you will become at it.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-65-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-65.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-66-200x123.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-66.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-67-200x118.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-67.jpg)</center> Once again pat yourself on the back, you’ve built your first custom water cooling loop! It is recommended that you let the loop run for 12-24hours to check for leaks. Sometimes they develop over time and it’s best to wait a bit before giving power to your expensive components.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-68-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-68.jpg)</center> Once you are sure your loop is watertight, remove the 24pin jumper and fire your rig up. Using temperature monitoring software check that your temps seem correct and that your CPU isn’t overheating. If it is, it is most likely a bad mount of your CPU block and should be remounted. Of course if everything seems correct you are good to go!
Performance Testing Keep in mind that often times idle temps are not that impressive under water cooling, these systems typically don’t start to impress until the heat is really turned up. Time perhaps for some overclocking? Or maybe just a long gaming session? Either way enjoy your awesome new cooling, we did some overclocking of our own with our WCing 101 rig check it out!
To get things started we took some screenshots of the processor running at stock idle and under load using Intel Burn Test set to maximum for one run.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/bl69-300x169.png (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/bl69.png) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/bl70-300x169.png (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/bl70.png)</center> Ambient: 72°F / 22.22°C
Idle Avg: 94.1°F / 34.5°C
Load Avg: 140.45°F / 60.25°C
Before we continue we need to decide what our thermal limit is. Knowing our chip and also that it is bound to run hot it is crucial to decide this before you start overclocking. We decide not to go past 90°C but we’d prefer to hang out in the low 80’s if possible. Based on the stock load temps we have about 20-30°C to play with. Since we use the same type of processor in one of our test rigs we have a general idea of what voltage and clock speed to shoot for. After messing about in BIOS for a few minutes we get the rig setup to run 4.5ghz with 1.2V vCore and a high level of line load calibration. We also turn off all rest state and power saving functions.
http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/bl72-600x338.png (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/bl72.png)
4.5ghz @ 1.2V vCore
Load Avg: 167.9°F / 75.5°C With one core hitting 83°C
Overall these aren’t bad temps, it’s the hot single core that is holding us back. For now 4.5ghz is a very decent overclock on this processor. Speed wise, we decide to leave it here and instead work to reduce voltage to get even better temps.
http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/bl73-600x338.png (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/bl73.png)
4.5ghz @ 1.18V vCore
Load Avg: 165.65°F / 74.25°C
Dropping the voltage by .02V netted us a 1.25°C temp drop and the system is still totally stable. Let’s pull some more voltage and see how the 3770K handles it.
http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/bl74-600x338.png (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/bl74.png)
4.5ghz @ 1.16V vCore
Load Avg: 160.25°F / 71.25°C
Another .02V drop and an impressive 4.25°C drop from the 1.2V temperatures. Clearly this particular chip does not like high voltage one bit. Dropping it down has resulted in some really great temps that we are happy to run with. It would likely be possible to increase the voltage and clock speed, but as it is we are happy with this result knowing we are running cool and stable.
That’s it for episode 5, we guided you along, step by step, as you assembled your first custom water cooling loop. Once up and running a custom loop can be left alone for around six months to a year depending on who you are talking to and whether you have additives in the water to kill off bacteria. At that point the loop will need some maintenance which we will cover fully in a later article. In the meantime enjoy the art that you’ve created, show it off to your friends, and crank those clock speeds up!
Join us next time for Water Cooling 101 Episode 6, where we take the basic loop we just built and upgrade it to the next level with a GPU block and an additional 360mm radiator!
Tuturial:
http://www.thinkcomputers.org/water-cooling-101-installing-your-basic-loop/
Welcome back to ThinkComputers Water Cooling 101! Over the past several articles we’ve been covering all the tricks and tips we’ve learned from years of building water cooled PCs. After an introduction to the art and designing our desired layout, we showed you how to pick the best parts for your needs, and finally once they arrived how to prep them for use. Finally, we are now to the point where we can do something truly exciting and actually our hands dirty; it’s install day! Today we go step by step and show you to install your very own basic water cooling loop. Our Water Cooling 101 series is brought to you by our great friends at Aquatuning (http://www.aquatuning.us/)! Check them out for all of your water cooling needs!
http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/aqua-tuning-600x333.jpg (http://www.aquatuning.us/)
First things first, you gotta build up your standard PC. We are going to assume that you know what you are doing in this category and won’t be going over it step by step. Basically you just want to do a nice tidy install as if the main components are everything you are going to be installing. Starting with clean wiring will give you a nice clean blank canvas to start with when you begin putting in your water cooling components.
Our rig is based on the following components:
Motherboard: Gigabyte G1.Sniper3
CPU: Intel 3770K
Memory: Crucial Ballistix DDR3 1600 8GB Kit
GPU: Asus GTX970 Strix (http://www.thinkcomputers.org/asus-strix-geforce-gtx-970-graphics-card-review/)
Storage: OCZ Vertex 3 120GB
PSU: Corsair RM750x (http://www.thinkcomputers.org/corsair-rm750x-750w-power-supply-review/)
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-1-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-1.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-2-200x114.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-2.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-3-200x125.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-3.jpg)</center> Before you begin make sure you have all your parts ready to go. We’ve got quite an awesome selection from our friends at Aquatuning, time to put it all to good use!
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-4-200x118.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-4.jpg)</center> Installing the CPU Block The first step is to install your CPU block. Depending on which block you chose this will vary slightly, but in our experience they all install using a very similar method. We are using an Alphacool NexXxoS XP3 Light block, and as we are using an Intel processor and motherboard we are going to use the Intel bracket for the block. This is simply placed onto the top of the block itself.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-5-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-5.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-6-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-6.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-7-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-7.jpg)</center> Next we pull the plastic backing off the small square piece of foam and secure it to the backplate. We then set up our stand off screws (the longest ones included in the kit) with on single washer on each. In the photos you will see we put the black metal washers on the stand off screws, this is actually incorrect, you should be using the white plastic washer here. The stand off screws are then passed through the correct slot in the backplate. You can find this by simply lining the backplate up with your motherboard and checking visually which holes they correspond with.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-8-200x123.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-8.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-9-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-9.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-10-200x118.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-10.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-11-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-11.jpg)</center> With the screws in the right place line all four up with the motherboard and pass them through the holes and into the front of the case. Holding the backplate with one hand, begin by putting an additional white washer onto the screw followed by one of the small nuts. Once all four are started evenly tighten them down with your fingers to secure them in place. Using the included allen wrench you can keep the screws from spinning while you tighten the nuts.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-12-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-12.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-13-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-13.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-14-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-14.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-15-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-15.jpg)</center> The backplate is now secure and ready to have the block installed, but first you must remember to apply thermal paste! There is paste included with the kit, however we chose to use some high performance Artic MX-2 paste that we know from experience performs really well. Apply a grain of rice size bead to the top of the CPU and prepare to install the block.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-16-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-16.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-17-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-17.jpg)</center> Passing the stand off screws through the ends of the block firmly press down and hold it in place with one hand. With the other hand place a washer on each screw followed by a spring and finally secure each with a thumb screw. After getting each one started, begin to alternate in a cross pattern until each screw is finger tight and all four are evenly applying pressure. You’ve now completely installed your first piece of water cooling hardware, the CPU block!
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-18-200x119.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-18.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-19-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-19.jpg)</center>
Installing the Radiator After the block we will install the radiator. Once installed the radiator will give us an idea of how much space we have left in the case to play with as well as how we are going to have to run tubing. Thanks to the genius engineer(s) at Phanteks installing the radiator is a simple process and can easily be removed again after installed to work on other parts.
Our Alphacool NexXoS XT45 Full Copper radiator has six ports all on the chamber end of the rad. You need to plug four of them with the included G1/4 port plugs.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-20-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-20.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-21-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-21.jpg)</center> Next placing our Phobya G-Silent 120mm fans in push pull we make sure everything lines up how we like it on the removeable radiator bracket. We orient the fans so they will be blowing air from inside the case up through the radiator and out the top of the case.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-22-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-22.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-23-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-23.jpg)</center> Satisfied with the orientation we select the shorter of the included screws since the metal we are attaching the fans through is so thin. Each corner of every fan is secured with the included screws and tightened with the included allen wrench.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-24-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-24.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-25-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-25.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-26-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-26.jpg)</center> Unfortunately the radiator only came with eight of the shorter screws and the longer ones are far too long. Lucky for us we’ve done this before and have lots of extras on hand, but this is something you will want to consider if it is your first time. Similar screw can be sourced from a local hardware store cheaply, the downside is typically only a silver finish is carried.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-27-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-27.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-28-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-28.jpg)</center> With all four fans fastened down we test fit the radiator in the top of the case. We find that although the rad assembly blocks sight of the top of the motherboard the Evolv ATX has plenty of width that will give us all the room we need behind it.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-29-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-29.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-30-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-30.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-31-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-31.jpg)</center>
Installing the Reservoir Following the radiator we want to install the reservoir. This will give us a good idea of where and how the pump must be oriented as well as how the loop will have to be routed to connect with the reservoir ports. For a reservoir we selected the Phobya Balancer 150 black nickel tube res. The finish on this res is extremely nice and it’s a bit a narrower than other 150 reservoirs we have used in the past. Included with the tube is a set of mounting clamps and G1/4 plugs to block the unused ports.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-32-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-32.jpg)</center> The most obvious installation location is the unused wall of our case where additional HDD brackets can be installed if desired. There, evenly spaced holes can be found where we can easily attach the clamps for the reservoir.
Sometimes you will need to create these holes for yourself if your case doesn’t have them. This can be easily done with a drill and drill bit that is just a hair larger than the screw. Use a vacuum to suck up the bits of metal as your drill creates them.
Back to installing our clamps, first insert one nut each into the space on the base of the clamp. Pass the screw through from the back of the case and attach it to the nut in the base of the clamp.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-33-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-33.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-34-84x150.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-34.jpg)</center> Once both clamps are loosely attached slide the res in and see how it looks. If you like the positioning you can go ahead and tighten the screw from behind the case using the included allen wrench securing the clamps in place.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-35-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-35.jpg)</center> Installing the Pump Cruising right along let’s get our pump installed. We chose a Phobya DC12-400 12 V pump. This guy should have plenty of flow for the components and kinks we’re going to throw at it. Installing the pump can actually be one of the trickier parts of your build. A lot depends on which pump you are using and whether you have an aftermarket kit. Standard pumps come with just a single inlet and outlet port. Because of this you have to route your tubing in a way that accommodates this. For instance the DC12-400 has the inlet in the front and outlet up top. Because of that we are unable to have the reservoir feed directly into the top of the pump how we would have liked. Thankfully the Evolv ATX has plenty of room right near the reservoir so we should be able to make something work.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-36-200x130.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-36.jpg)</center> There are two ways to mount this pump. The first is with a simple foam pad which has double sided tape on both sides. The other is a set of tabs which hold the pump in place and are secured with screws. Since we are doing a multiple stage build here we went with the foam pad as it is less permanent.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-37-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-37.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-38-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-38.jpg)</center> Once you get a general idea of how you wish the pump to be oriented, simply stick it to the surface in the correct position. You will also want to plug the pump into the power supply now. If the connectors don’t match I suggest getting an adapter as you will want full power straight from the power supply rather than a motherboard header if you can make it happen.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-39-200x119.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-39.jpg)</center>
Connecting Everything! And now for the hard work and the fun, getting everything connected! One of my favorite parts of a new build is putting all the fittings on and seeing if all my hard planning is going to work out. But often it doesn’t so be prepared to be flexible and change things around of you just can’t get something to work.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-40-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-40.jpg)</center> At this point go ahead and install all the fittings in the way you planned. Removing the collars from them before attaching them should make your life a little easier. Since we are putting a drain line in go ahead and build up the ‘T’ fitting with three straight compression fittings now as well.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-41-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-41.jpg)</center> After you get all your fittings installed it’s time to make or break it, and start attaching the tubing. This is the point where you find out if any of your angle’s are going to cause a kink or perhaps whether you can even force the tubing to make a certain harsh bend at all. Of course assuming everything is set-up nicely, this should be a breeze. Don’t feel bad if you struggle though, this can be very hard to master.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-42-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-42.jpg)</center> Begin with your easiest connections so you can get a good feel for it. Attach the tubing to one of the fittings you wish to connect. Slip the collar over the tubing first and push it down out of the way a few inches. Now run the tubing to the next fitting. Mark the tubing by holding it with your finger where it should touch the base of the threads on the fitting. Give yourself some extra length, about a ½ to full inch. Cut the tubing with a tube cutter if you purchased one or a pair of sharp scissors. If using scissors it is important to make sure the cut is straight or it won’t seal on the fitting properly and could leak.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-43-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-43.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-44-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-44.jpg)</center> Now pull the fitting to the end and tighten them until your fingers hurt. The process will try to sort of spin the tubing, try to keep it straight. It also helps if the tubing is going straight into the fitting when you are tightening the collar. This keeps it from bunching and jamming up the fitting.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-45-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-45.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-46-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-46.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-47-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-47.jpg)</center> Repeat this process for all you connections. Again be prepared to have to change things around if an angle just isn’t going to work. It’s also worth keeping in mind that the fewer 90° fittings used the better as these cause additional restrictions and slow the water flow.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-48-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-48.jpg)</center> Since we are installing a drain line we of course need to close it off. There are many types of fittings designed for this, some just plug the tubing, others attach to a hole in the case and serve as a sort of port. We used one we had laying around, it simply plugs into the open end of the tubing and is secured with a zip tie.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-49-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-49.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-50-200x111.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-50.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-51-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-51.jpg)</center> Keep making those connections until you’ve got everything hooked up and ready to go! The use of swivel fittings will really make your life easier as they will give you a wider selection of angles to use.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-52-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-52.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-53-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-53.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-54-188x150.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-54.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-55-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-55.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-56-100x150.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-56.jpg)</center>
Filling Up Your Loop & Leak Testing Once your loop is fully installed it’s time to fill it up and start testing it! To do this we are going to need to be able to turn the pump on without turning the whole PC on over and over. That’s where a 24pin jumper comes in. This is simply a female 24pin connector with a wire running from the Green power wire to any of the grounds. This tricks the PSU into thinking it’s plugged into a motherboard so it will provide power to all of the other connections.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-57-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-57.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-58-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-58.jpg)</center> Of course now is the time to bust out your distilled water and whichever mechanism for filling the loop you’ve chosen. Ours is a bit of old tubing with a fitting attached and a funnel. This method is cheap but perhaps not as easy as using a fill bottle. Before you begin you will want to put some paper towel down inside the case. Place them as best you can to cover your components. You will not be soaking up a major leak this way but it will certainly help to keep things dry should a minor leak develope. We’ve also found that you can detect a leak easier on the paper towels sometimes. Do remember though, if you are careful to use only distilled water there is very little risk to your parts so long as they are not powered on when wet. Over the years we’ve gotten plenty of components wet, and have yet to lose one from it.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-59-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-59.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-60-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-60.jpg)</center> Only thing to do now is to connect the tubing to the fill port on top of the reservoir and begin filling. A downside to using the tubing and funnel method is the lack of a vent port on the top of this specific reservoir. Because of this the air in the loop being replaced by water must exit the same way the water is going in, which can and will cause an air plug. If this occurs try elevating the funnel or tilting the case.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-61-103x150.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-61.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-62-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-62.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-63-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-63.jpg)</center> When first filling the loop it will only fill to a certain point backing up into the reservoir. When this happens it’s time to turn the PSU on. The pump will kick on and the water will surge, pumping water up into the top of the loop while drawing from the reservoir at the same time. In the early stages be ready to quickly shut down the PSU before the pump draws in air. If it does this it will capitate, which is a bubble of air completely enclosing the impellers preventing the pump from moving any water. If left running in this state it will not only not move any water, but will also burn the pump out as the water is also the pumps only source of lubricant. Simply shut the PSU down and refill the reservoir to continue. If you find that the pump won’t start to move water again give the case a side to side shake or orient the case to that the pump is at the very bottom of the loop, gravity should take it from there.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-64-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-64.jpg)</center> Sometimes filling a loop is a simple five minute process, others a nightmare of turning and shaking the case to move air bubbles. Filling a water cooling loop is an art and the more times you do it the better you will become at it.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-65-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-65.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-66-200x123.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-66.jpg) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-67-200x118.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-67.jpg)</center> Once again pat yourself on the back, you’ve built your first custom water cooling loop! It is recommended that you let the loop run for 12-24hours to check for leaks. Sometimes they develop over time and it’s best to wait a bit before giving power to your expensive components.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-68-200x113.jpg (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BasicLoop-68.jpg)</center> Once you are sure your loop is watertight, remove the 24pin jumper and fire your rig up. Using temperature monitoring software check that your temps seem correct and that your CPU isn’t overheating. If it is, it is most likely a bad mount of your CPU block and should be remounted. Of course if everything seems correct you are good to go!
Performance Testing Keep in mind that often times idle temps are not that impressive under water cooling, these systems typically don’t start to impress until the heat is really turned up. Time perhaps for some overclocking? Or maybe just a long gaming session? Either way enjoy your awesome new cooling, we did some overclocking of our own with our WCing 101 rig check it out!
To get things started we took some screenshots of the processor running at stock idle and under load using Intel Burn Test set to maximum for one run.
<center>http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/bl69-300x169.png (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/bl69.png) http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/bl70-300x169.png (http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/bl70.png)</center> Ambient: 72°F / 22.22°C
Idle Avg: 94.1°F / 34.5°C
Load Avg: 140.45°F / 60.25°C
Before we continue we need to decide what our thermal limit is. Knowing our chip and also that it is bound to run hot it is crucial to decide this before you start overclocking. We decide not to go past 90°C but we’d prefer to hang out in the low 80’s if possible. Based on the stock load temps we have about 20-30°C to play with. Since we use the same type of processor in one of our test rigs we have a general idea of what voltage and clock speed to shoot for. After messing about in BIOS for a few minutes we get the rig setup to run 4.5ghz with 1.2V vCore and a high level of line load calibration. We also turn off all rest state and power saving functions.
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4.5ghz @ 1.2V vCore
Load Avg: 167.9°F / 75.5°C With one core hitting 83°C
Overall these aren’t bad temps, it’s the hot single core that is holding us back. For now 4.5ghz is a very decent overclock on this processor. Speed wise, we decide to leave it here and instead work to reduce voltage to get even better temps.
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4.5ghz @ 1.18V vCore
Load Avg: 165.65°F / 74.25°C
Dropping the voltage by .02V netted us a 1.25°C temp drop and the system is still totally stable. Let’s pull some more voltage and see how the 3770K handles it.
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4.5ghz @ 1.16V vCore
Load Avg: 160.25°F / 71.25°C
Another .02V drop and an impressive 4.25°C drop from the 1.2V temperatures. Clearly this particular chip does not like high voltage one bit. Dropping it down has resulted in some really great temps that we are happy to run with. It would likely be possible to increase the voltage and clock speed, but as it is we are happy with this result knowing we are running cool and stable.
That’s it for episode 5, we guided you along, step by step, as you assembled your first custom water cooling loop. Once up and running a custom loop can be left alone for around six months to a year depending on who you are talking to and whether you have additives in the water to kill off bacteria. At that point the loop will need some maintenance which we will cover fully in a later article. In the meantime enjoy the art that you’ve created, show it off to your friends, and crank those clock speeds up!
Join us next time for Water Cooling 101 Episode 6, where we take the basic loop we just built and upgrade it to the next level with a GPU block and an additional 360mm radiator!
Tuturial:
http://www.thinkcomputers.org/water-cooling-101-installing-your-basic-loop/